Branch Manager Pruning Tips: A Guide to Safe, Efficient Tree Health

Proper pruning requires careful consideration of the ‘why’, ‘what’, ‘when’, ‘how’ and ‘who’. Imprudent pruning caused by improper techniques can permanently disfigure or even kill a tree. If you are interested in maintaining healthy trees for years into the future, check out our pruning tips below.

WHY: Reasons to Prune a Tree

Why are you pruning your tree? Is it for safety, structure, health or aesthetics? Here are some of the most common reasons to prune a tree:

• Reduce the risk of failure from dead, dying or structurally weak branches

• Manage tree diseases and insects

• Reduce property damage

• Manage flower or fruit production

• Provide overhead clearance

• Improve sunlight and air circulation

• Improve tree structure

• Improve aesthetics

• Correct growth habits

WHAT: Tree Species

What type of tree are you pruning? Is it a deciduous or an evergreen tree? Is it a broadleaf or a coniferous tree? Is it a flower- or a fruit-bearing tree? If you can, identify the tree species by both its common and scientific name. All of this information will determine when and how you apply appropriate pruning techniques as some tree species have special pruning requirements.

WHEN: Right Time to Prune a Tree

When should you prune a tree or shrub? The timing of pruning depends on both your reason for pruning and the type of tree you have.

Safety: Prune trees anytime of year to avoid potentially serious or lethal damage.

Structure: Prune trees in winter after leaf abscission to better visualize the framework of the tree or shrub.

Health: Prune trees in winter during dormancy to decrease harm to the tree and prevent the spread of disease. Exceptions to this rule include maples (Acer spp.) and birches (Betula spp.) because they will bleed sap if cut during winter. You should prune these trees when they’re in full leaf during midsummer.

Aesthetics:

• To facilitate blooming, prune spring-flowering plants immediately after the flowers begin to fade, and summer-flowering plants in winter or early spring prior to bud break.
  

• To create a tidy, compact look for pines, candle the shoots when they are appressed and soft, before the needles unfurl and the shoot hardens in midsummer.
  

• Hedges and topiaries can be pruned or sheared anytime, although it is best to prune these in late spring or summer to avoid damage to new growth.
  

• Remove suckers and epicormic shoots anytime when the weather is warm and dry.

What about conifers? Evergreen conifers generally do not require pruning unless it is for safety, structure, or health reasons. For more information on how to prune a coniferous tree or shrub, check out the Guide to Successful Pruning: Pruning Evergreen Trees by the University of Virginia.

HOW: Executing Proper Pruning Techniques

How should you prune a tree or shrub? Here are some important rules you should adhere to when pruning a branch:

• If a tree is within 10 feet (3.05 m) of an overhead powerline, consult with a local Certified Utility Arborist (CUA). Do not prune these trees without proper training and certification as the branches can conduct electricity and cause serious harm or even death.
  

• Adhere to pruning ban bylaws in your municipality, such as Alberta's Elm Pruning Ban (April 1 – September 30).
  

• Use clean, sharp tools to avoid damaging the wood. Select bypass secateurs for the cleanest cut.
  

• Select the proper tool for the branch diameter. For small branches (< 2.5 cm diameter), use a hand pruner. For large branches (2.5–4.0 cm diameter), use a hand saw. For very large branches (> 4.0 cm diameter), use a chainsaw (if properly trained). What about loppers? Loppers may seem lucrative for large branches on high with its extended handle and bypass blades, but more often than not this tool leaves behind partially crushed, unclean pruning cuts. Best to save this tool for out-of-reach small branches (< 2.5 cm diameter) or suckers that sprout near the roots.
  

• Always clean and sanitize your tools between each cut to prevent the spread of disease.
  

• Do not prune when it is raining. Water can facilitate pathogenic organisms such as bacteria and fungi into fresh wounds and disseminate disease.
  

• Cut at a 45º angle at the junction away from the bark branch ridge. Do not leave stubs as this can interfere with the tree’s ability to compartmentalize.
  

• Do not cut flush with or into the branch collar, which is the swollen area just outside the junction of the branch and the trunk.
  

• Do not use tree paint over pruning cuts as this can interfere with the tree’s ability to callus a wound.
  

• Cavities should never be excavated and/or plugged with rigid fillers like cement, as this often does more harm than good. In most cases, it is best to leave the cavity alone. If you're concerned about a tree cavity or any structural defect, contact a TRAQ Arborist.
  

• Wear Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) such as a hard hat, googles and gloves. If using a chainsaw, use a hard hat with a face shield and ear protection along with chainsaw-proof chaps. For more advice on proper pruning techniques, read How to Prune Trees by the USDA Forest Service.
  

WHO: The People Involved

Who are you pruning for? Is it yourself, a friend, a family member, or a client? Ensure you consult with the homeowner prior to making any pruning cuts to make sure the task performed is understood and agreed upon, and create pruning specifications built on industry standards as outlined in the ANSI A300, Part 1. Don't hesitate to make recommendations where necessary, but ultimately the property owner or manager makes the final decision of what is to be done.

When in doubt, contact a professional to ensure your landscape can be enjoyed for years into the future. Contact us for a consultation today!